Re: Thread 3' pipe in field yes the 141 will do it and there is a ratchet handle, or an adaptor for the power threader, like the Ridgid's 700, or Rothenbergers Mini-Collins. There is also a draw bar that can be used to power it off of some of RIdgid's threading machines. There heavy, in the 100 pound range.
There a numerous acronyms associated with Pipe Threading. API American Petroleum Institute (Oil field threads). (see your student guide). Practices www.fgspipe.com fgspipe@nov.com. Installation related manuals and guides for the product to be installed. Regional Manager and/or Field Service Represen- tative to discuss. This manual will: 5 Pipe 6 Pipe Threads 6 Straight Threads 7 Taper Threads 7 Thread Tape 8 Applying Thread Tape 8 The Pipe vs. Tubing Decision 9 Tubing 10. 6 Fitting Installation Manual Pipe Pipe, by definition, is a hollow, elongated metallic structure used to convey fluids. The same definition.
The older JP threader, is similar, but you would need a set of dies for ever pipe size, and the 141, uses one set of dies that adjust to the pipe size, also there is a clutch device in the 141, that will help keep it from jamming if you don't stop threading when one should. Basically the rear of the unit clamps on to the end of the pipe, and then the front section is driven by gear reduction and screws on and threads the end of the pipe, on page 13 of the 535 threading machine gives some information on the 141. And on 11 of the 300 threading machine. (the manuals page number not the pdf page number) If you want used, you can check EBay they show up there regularly, between $500 and $1000 is the usually EBay price on them. The ratchet handles from $25 to $100. Need to watch the shipping costs.
Re: Thread 3' pipe in field What I was refering to is that there may be an alternative to threading, depending on his situation. If it absolutly needs to be threaded, and it's in a ceiling, underground, or sticking out of the floor, then your only option would be Utah (and other's) method of using a geared threader.
As mentioned by Utah, you can use a Ridgid power head to turn it, or if you have alot of spare time you can hand crank it. But, 1) Can you back the piece out, and thread it? 2) Is this just one joint? If it is alot of joints, I'm going with Hawk and Bob, with welding. 3) What is this pipe used for?
If it's not a pressure line use the appropriate no hub band and forget it. 4) If it's water I've used a Roust-a-Bout coupling, which is made by Victolic. Without knowing the situation it kind of hard to help.